This is the kind of terrible photography that happens when I'm about to be presented with a chariot of desserts. Oui, c'est vrai! A limitless chariot of desserts! In Paris no less! And from where did this majestic display of dessert gluttony appear? Heaven? No, but close--l'institut Vatel. Recommended to us by friends, mon mari and I dined at l'institut Vatel to celebrate Valentine's Day way back when and I'm just now getting to share this delicious discovery with you. L'institut Vatel is not your average restaurant. It's a school for hotel and tourism management that operates a restaurant to give its students experience working in a bustling dining establishment. Because the restaurant is there to train students, the atmosphere is a bit classroom like and students swarm around the tables like a bunch of nervous bees. They're almost too attentive, and a few times I found myself feeling anxious for them knowing they were probably receiving marks for that night's service. Some people may not like the students' doting, but I quite enjoyed their attentiveness especially in Paris where most servers make rare appearances at your table. Our meals were very tasty, but really we were there for the cheese and dessert. The cheese platter would have made Templeton the happiest rat around and left mon mari and I searching for stomach space to fit the pastries heading our direction. Forget a measly dessert tray! The servers wheeled out 4 carts displaying over 12 scrumptious sweets. You know dessert is serious business when you need more than one person to push the dessert display. And instead of trying to capture a well composed photo of the dessert, I hastily took the first picture I could and quickly got to picking out which pastries would make it on my plate. Who can even think straight, let alone take good photos when there's that much dessert staring you down? Not this girl. Don't ask me how I narrowed down my choices either. All I know is three slices of tart and cake (I can practice some restraint) were piled on my plate, the standout being a delicious combination of grapefruit and cream. Major yum. If you're down with dessert like I am or enjoy watching restaurant students sweat it out for a good grade, l'institut Vatel is a fun experience. Walk in with the understanding that it's at it's core it is a training facility and you won't be disappointed. Promise. (Oh, by the way, this would not be a place to make reservation if you're trying to come to grips with a gluten allergy. Nope, not the best choice. Oops.) Institut Vatel 122 Rue Nollet 75017 Paris 01 42 26 26 60
I always struggle with what to get my main squeeze for Christmas and this year was no different, especially when we make the commitment to not get each other "stuff." Our apartment is just the right size for two, but the more stuff we "collect" the more and more cramped it becomes which exacerbates my fear of ending up on the A&E show Hoarders. Watch it and you'll be throwing away every snow globe and random post card you own.
With the no "stuff" rule lurking in my mind, I was coming up with zip, zero, zilch. Until...Paris came to the rescue and by Paris I mean all of the regular and seasonal activities Paris offers that we're normally too busy to do or don't make time for. You know how you start to really live in a city and stop going to museums, exhibitions, and special events because you "live" there now? It's just like how I grew up in DC, but only once ever went to July 4th fireworks on the National Mall. Well, that's bologna! I decided to plan a day where we do all those fun, silly, dare I say touristy Parisian things that we ignore most of the time and mix them up with some extra special touches just for mon mari like taking him to the shore store to buy Dr. Martens. Yes, the shoes count as "stuff", but he's been talking about these Doc Martens like a seventh grader who has eaten too many pixie sticks at a sleepover. The Dr. Martens need to happen because he won't buy those darn shoes for himself. But to complete the look, do you think we should also buy a pair of jeans with a hammer hook? Could be the whole package, just sayin'.
Now, after some serious idea searching and a bit of crafting, the mon mari day of Paris awesomeness is upon us. Here's a peek into how it all started.
I'll be back early next week to share how the whole day went down and a few of my favorite resources for figuring out things to do in Paris. Plus, I haven't forgotten about Munich and still really want to share a few tidbits about that beer fueled visit.
Bon weekend!
I've told you how much I love candy, but have I ever told you how much I love horses? My love for horses is probably greater than my love for Haribo alas it's much easier (and cheaper) to buy a package of gold bears than find a horse to ride in Paris. However, instead of being a sad sack about this sorry fact, I get my hindquarters to every horsey event in the city, including last weekend's jumping competition sponsored by Gucci. Held in conjunction with the Salon du Cheval, the Gucci Masters brings together the world's highest ranked equestrians to compete at the most difficult level of show jumping. We're talking about the crème de la crème of horses and athletes--riders who have graced Olympic rosters and horses who have Breyer products modeled after them. The riders and their mounts compete for over 800,000 euros in prize money over three days worth of classes concluding with Sunday's Gucci Grand Prix. While there are other events scattered throughout the schedule, including a pony race, nothing beats watching world class riders speed through a course of 1.6 meter high jumps. You can literally hear the crowd gasping for breath as they will every horse and rider combination to have a fault free round and move on to the jump off. You can't help but ooh and aah watching a horse clear an enormous obstacle and then spin and turn only to do it again in the next few steps. It's both breathtaking and thrilling. Even for someone like mon mari, who barely considers horseback riding a sport, the Grand Prix had him on the edge of his seat cheering loud and clear for the riders. While we wished the American riders had taken first place (they came in 3rd and 6th), Pénélope Leprevost took home the grand prize for France, woo hoo! Despite seeing a lack of French crowd enthusiasm at the past few football events I've attended, the French really came out and supported their equestrians. Loud music, synchronized clapping, and whooping came from the stands after every rider. Based on the final results it's obvious this is a sport where the French excel and the fans clearly know it! Happy Trails!
P.S. I tried to take action shots at the horse show, but trust me when I say the photo of me from my university riding team days is much better! All of my photos were a blurry mess minus the ring shot from last year's competition.
This past weekend the exhibition halls at Paris's Parc Floral turned into a pet lover's play land when the 2011 Animal Expo rolled in with over 300 dogs, 700 cats, fish, birds, farm animals, reptiles and rodents. When I saw metro billboards displaying advertisements for the expo, I knew I had to go. A chance to play with all those dogs and cats--who wouldn't want to attend?! Mon mari and I headed to the event early on Saturday afternoon and were really wowed by the sheer number and diversity of animals on display. I knew were going to get more than just puppy play time when on our walk to the event entrance I saw someone leaving the expo carrying a plastic container holding a small, slithery snake! They'd obviously just purchased the new family pet!
After buying our tickets at the door, we decided to check out the smaller exhibition halls first. We saw sheep, rats, mice, iguanas, turtles, frogs, and more snakes than Samuel L. Jackson had on his plane. We couldn't believe the number of attendees interested in taking home a snake! Some of the breeds were selling for 400 euros a pop!
As much as we enjoyed the movie Ratatouille, we knew a pet rat wasn't in our future so we left the rodent and reptile party and headed to see the dogs and cats. Within a few steps of walking into the big exhibition hall, I felt like I was on the set of the film Best in Show except, instead of dogs, cats were the stars. The cat owners were clearly on break as many of them sat eating baguettes and talking shop while their felines lounged in luxurious cat carriers. I couldn't help but imagine all of the cat intrigue going on! Meow, meow, meow, meow... On our way out of cat-ville, I snapped the photo below. Wouldn't one of these pillows or paintings be a fabulous addition to your home? Don't tell you don't want one...
Sayonara cats! It was finally time for man's best friend. There were over 65 different breeds for mon mari and I to oh and ah. While many of the dog owners didn't want visitors petting their prized chien, there were still plenty that allowed you to get up close and personal. I even got a few licks and nibbles from some rambunctious puppies. By the time we pulled ourselves away from the Bernese Mountain Dog booth, I was convinced we could figure out how to care for a puppy in Paris. Do dogs really need that much space? Wouldn't one just love to cuddle up in our little apartment? The answer is probably not, but that can't stop me from stalking puppy breeders (even if I do have to wait a year or two)!
Hope these cute photos bring some cheer to your Monday! Have a great start to the week!
On Sunday, mon mari and I went to the race track! Not just any old race track--the Hippodrome de Longchamp on the western side of Paris's Bois de Boulogne. Each year at the beginning of October the Hippodrome de Longchamp hosts the Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe. While the Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe is the name of the entire two day racing affair, it is also the name of the most prestigious race that takes place on Sunday afternoon. Even with a season of training under their belts, the mile and a half long course is known to be a challenge for both horse and rider, and the 90th running of the race proved to be no different. While the spectators were sweating it out just standing in their linen suits and flowery dresses, the horses had to fly around the track under a sweltering Paris sun. You can imagine the excitement in the grandstand as the horses burst through the starting gate and started making their way round the grassy course. As the horses reached the final stretch, the tension in the air was palpable--everyone had something riding on which horse crossed the finish line first, myself included. As much as I was cheering for #8 Snow Fairy to win big, a German jockey and filly combo sped into the winner's circle galloping past the second and third place finishers by quite a few paces. I'm happy for the winning team, but I bet a whole vacation on an even numbered horse winning the race. Just before the race started mon mari and I agreed that if an odd numbered horse won, mon mari could plan a seven day hiking trip next summer. If an even numbered horse landed first place, then I could design a week long spa vacation. The winning team's number? 15. I should learn never to make bets as I always seem to lose! Maybe a rigorous trek through les Pyrénées will teach me a lesson! The Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe is a Paris event I definitely recommend squeezing into your schedule next season. For a small general admission fee (only 8 euros this year!), you get to support your favorite horses, mingle with an international crowd, and spend a day surveying a sea of interesting outfits. Since the event draws people from across globe, it is very friendly toward English speakers and most of the information provided is in English, including the event's excellent website. Even if you're not into the equine side of things, there's plenty more to do and see at the track. You can sip champagne and pick your favorite fascinator, go shopping at the boutiques, or for a bit more money, sashay your way into the VIP area. Below I've included some tips for getting the most out of your Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe experience!
Helpful Tips:Purchase tickets through FNAC which has an English version of their site. You can request your tickets to be sent to your home or you can pick them up at a FNAC location in Paris. Plan in advance how you'll get to the track. Unfortunately, the Hippodrome de Longchamp isn't close to a metro stop. There is a tram line on the opposite side of the river from the track as well as several metros on the eastern side of the Bois de Boulogne. Give yourself plenty of time to walk from the metro or hop on one of the free shuttles that leave from Port Maillot, Pont de Sevres, and Porte d' Autueil.Go to the racetrack when it opens (around 1PM) to get a seat in the general admission area or else you'll be standing. If you do get stuck standing, hang around the railing so that when it's time for the big race you're watching the horses and not the back of people's heads. Learn French horse racing lingo before you go so you can make educated bets and maybe win some money! Pack a few snacks if you don't want to pay for food at the track. Just be careful--they do bag checks at the gate and you are not allowed to bring in drinks.Bring binoculars. Even if you get a seat in the general admission area you're still pretty low compared to the more expensive seats in the grandstand. Grab a pair of binoculars so you can see all the action. P.S. Here's the big race on video! I really enjoy the expressions of some of the spectators. (Sorry for the jostling!)
Sometimes you hear about a little something something going on in Paris and you think it's just a small event. You're new. You don't know. Then you walk out your front door and the little event has exploded on your sidewalk. Hello last night's Fête de la Musique. Holy hannah, I was not ready for you and your craziness. The whisperings of the Fête de la Musique on Twitter and my friends' occasional mentions of the event did not prepare me for the musical extravaganza that took over my neighborhood and other arrondissements. I started hearing the first few notes of music walking back from my French class yesterday evening . A jazz band had overtaken a local plaza and was jamming out and a DJ was spinning tunes in a bar, but I still wasn't sure what the music was all about. As I got closer and closer to my apartment, I could hear the sounds of multiple bands dueling it out New Orleans's piano style--one on this corner, one on that corner. More than three bands were rocking out on the blocks surrounding my apartment. When mon mari got home, we decided to hit the streets and really see what this fête was all about. One block later, we were in a throng of people singing a U2 song and that was only the beginning. Here are some of the musical and not so musical highlights of my Fête de la Musique education: 1. Parisians singing in English. From Bono to Lady Gaga, accents and warbly voices never get old. 2. Little kids dancing. I think I watched a future Chris Farley tap dancer do his thing. 3. Spontaneous parade of revelers following a marching band composed of very, very old band campers. Awesome. 4. Enough smoke coming off the food carts selling merguez sausages to make Smokey the Bear nervous . 5. A band performing Peter's Dracula song from the movie Forgetting Sarah Marshall. It sounded that similar, trust me. 6. Weed, weed, weed, and more weed wafting through the streets.7. Open containers of alcohol in everyone's hands. Bottle of wine anyone? 8. No police presence. Zero. Zilch.9. French rapping. You try to listen to it. 10. No music after 2AM. YAY! Sleep! A tour around my neighborhood gave me a whirlwind snapshot of the fête and just how misinformed I was about this yearly event. But 2012 watch out. I'll be ready. Party on the balcony! For real information about Fête de la Musique check out the official website. P.S. Want to hear some French rap and see old guys trying to be down with it? Clearly, mon mari and I are really into it.
P.P.S. Someday I'll learn how to rotate a video so that it's not sideways :)
A special post courtesy of mon mari--the music guru in this house. (It's his 1st blog contribution ever!)The lights fell as the brass prelude of the La Maroquinerie signaled the entrance of Tallest Man on Earth. No I'm not talking about Sultan Kösen, the actual tallest living person on the planet, rather Kristian Matsson, the acoustic guitar-wielding Swede whose sound and style remind one a little of Bob Dylan. His guitar picking lines were in constant motion (as is the bouncy Kristian himself) and complemented by the fresh lyrics of a storyteller. It's easier to hook you on the tunes of the Tallest Man on Earth by telling you to watch/listen to his performance of "Troubles Will be Gone." Enjoy the good tunes and have a happy weekend! We're off to the wilderness to breathe in French country air, play card games, and roast marshmallows.
What happens to your sudsy water when you're done with your morning shower? Where does your kid's dead gold fish go after you flush him down the toilet? What about the ten tons of doggie dodo that dot the city's sidewalks? All of this and much, much more ends up in Paris's underground sewer system. As you can imagine, this delightful mixture creates quite a stinky situation--a situation I experienced first hand this past weekend on a tour with Paris Walks. And boy oh boy did my super sniffer suffer! Before our tour even reached a sewer pipe, our guide was having us sniff a 54 million year old crocodile turd. The fossilized reptile dung was only a preview of the foul odors to come.... After tucking the dried poo back in his pocket, our tour guide presented us with a brief history of the Seine has Paris's public dumping ground and shared some icky tidbits about earlier sewer "systems." Having little boys climb into septic tanks and clean them out by bucket doesn't sound like much of a system to me, but I suppose it was better than letting sewage run down the middle of the streets. (At this point in the tour I was thanking my lucky starts to have been born in the 20th century, 1980s woohoo!) A few more historical points and we made our way to Le Musée des Egouts otherwise known as the city's sewer museum and the stinkiest place my nostrils have ever been. Holy hannah! Even just walking around in there made me want to put on one of the sewer worker protection suits! There was no escaping the smell--the museum is located in a working section of the sewer system to give you an up close and personal view of exactly what happens when you take care of business at home or lose your keys down a storm drain. (You don't want those keys back trust me. Just make a new set.) While at the museum you walk over raging "rivers" of sewer water, get a sneak peek into the life of a sewer worker, see a rat or two, and learn how your tap water goes from disgusting to refreshing via Paris's state of the art water treatment center. (Your sink water is cleaner than most bottled brands so stop wasting your euros!) If you're totally enthralled by the idea of rat bite inoculations, spiders the size of your palm, and human bacteria you should definitely put yourself on the wait list to become a sewer worker--yep there's a four year long wait list OR you could just do the tour and get out of there in an hour or so! You know which option I'd recommend.
Sorry for this gem of a gross post, but I promise the tour is worth it if you want an off (way off) the beaten track experience! Be sure to give your shoes a clean scrub afterward too. You don't want to tromp Paris's worst through your home...
Exhibit A:
 Dog clean up bag dispenser. Exhibit B:
 Take a peek front and center. Unbelievable, but c'est vrai! Even within a few, short centimeters of a sachet pour chien someone couldn't pick up the merde. But, I can't decide which is ickier--the dog owner failing to pick up his pup's calling card or me noticing said merde and taking a picture (and now sharing it with all of you...). YUCK all around.
Watch your step and happy Thursday! Pop by tomorrow for a far less gross giveaway post!
Robin Hood used to give me presents when I was little, like purple eye shadow and board games. He also told me that if it weren't for Maid Marain I'd be his #1 squeeze. Now my favorite Disney stud is popping up in hot pink in my 'hood. Why can't my cartoon boy toy stop stalking me? Have you spotted the fox in Paris? He's hiding on a street with graffiti flowers...
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